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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.